Even if you don’t think you know the song “Smoke on the Water” by Deep Purple, you almost certainly do; historical record sales aside, in recent years it’s been streamed over half a billion times. The moment Ritchie Blackmore strikes those opening notes on his Fender Stratocaster, you’ll recognize one of the most iconic riffs in rock history. It’s a simple enough four-note melody in G minor (albeit harmonised in parallel fourths), yet it was voted number 4 on Total Guitar magazine’s “Greatest Guitar Riffs Ever” list, and in a 2017 global poll it was voted the “Greatest Guitar Riff of All Time”.
That riff!
But why am I writing about this? Well, there’s a true story behind the lyrics of that song. While the band were staying in Montreux, Switzerland, in 1971, prior to recording there, the local casino caught fire during a Frank Zappa concert. The band witnessed it from their hotel, and bassist Roger Glover later woke from a dream with the title “Smoke on the Water,” inspired by the sight of the fire’s smoke drifting across Lake Geneva.
I was reminded of this rock trivia recently when I was recently on the Pyg track with a colleague, and although the summits were clear, some of the valleys were draped in a light mist. Looking down at Glaslyn, the water was largely obscured by a low-hanging mist, and as a self-confessed Deep Purple fan, it was hard not to think of the song title given the scene below us.
There was negligible wind, so the ‘smoke’ was quite still – until the helicopter arrived.
The approaching distinctive noise identified it as the Coastguard Search & Rescue helicopter. These are a fairly common sight on Yr Wyddfa, but for my colleague it promised to be more interesting than usual. 2026 has brought a significant change to the fleet: across Great Britain’s ten rescue bases, the heavy-duty Sikorsky S-92 is being joined — and in many places replaced — by the new AgustaWestland AW139. The AW139 is a state-of-the-art machine; it’s smaller, lighter and noticeably more agile than the S-92 “workhorse”. However, its compact size has made it a bit controversial with Mountain Rescue teams, who now have less room for people, stretchers and other gear.
The base at Caernarfon has always had two helicopters – the two Sikorskys were largely identical apart from the last letter of their tail number (the lettering on the side) — so that one will always be available when the other is undergoing routine maintenance or repair. When the new helicopter was put into service, one of the older Sikorskys was retained as the second helicopter.
I had previously seen the new helicopter in action on more than one occasion, but my colleague hadn’t come across it yet. Even from a distance, however, it was evident that the “old guard” was on duty. Although they carry similar colouring and markings, this was obviously not the new one with its smaller fusilage, fewer windows and a longer tail.
The helicopter began circling the cwm for training, eventually touching down on the shore near the old copper mine, a manoeuvre it then repeated. As it descended, the massive down-draught tore into the mist, scattering the “smoke on the water”, as if whipped up by a strong wind.
It was a memorable sight, enough to make me think I should follow Deep Purple’s lead and immortalize the scene in song. (And yes, I do own a Stratocaster.)